What is conditioner?

Simply put, conditioner is a moisturising agent. This hair care cosmetic is used to improve the manageability, texture, feel and appearance of hair strands. The main purpose is to smooth down the hair’s cuticle layer to reduce friction between strands, allowing smoother brushing, combing, and detangling. Hair conditioner is usually used after the hair and scalp have been washed with shampoo. It is applied to the mid-length and ends of the hair, and it may be rinsed after a short time, or left on longer. Various other benefits can be obtained through a conditioner, such as reduction in split ends, strengthening, and hydration.

The outer layer of the hair shaft is called the cuticle. Magnified up close, this looks like scales on a fish or shingles on a roof and is largely made up of the protein keratin. Over time, damage to this layer from external aggressors such as combing, heat styling, colouring, and pollution, to name just a few, can cause the hair to become dry, brittle, and frizzy in appearance. While conditioners can’t completely regenerate this, what they can do is help fill in the gaps of damage and make the hair look and feel a lot healthier.

There are various types of conditioner:
• Traditional, post shampoo conditioners. (Link page) Designed to smooth down the cuticle layer and replace elements missing from the hair.
• Deep conditioners. (Link page) Hair masks, left on for longer to penetrate the cuticle layer, to the cortex of the strand more deeply, repairing damage and replacing lipids.
• Leave-in conditioners. Post shower, no rinse treatments that nourishes and protects the hair throughout the day.

Are you making these conditioning mistakes?

1. Applying conditioner to the scalp.

Conditioner is not designed to go on or near your scalp. This is how to condition properly:
• Squeeze out excess water post shampoo, as water dilutes the potency of conditioner.
• Apply product evenly to the palms of your hands.
• Starting at the ends of your hair, where it’s oldest, driest, and most damaged, work your way up the strands to the mid-lengths, detangling as you go, with long fluid motions.
• Leave on for 2-3 minutes allowing the product to adhere to the hair shaft.
• If using a deep conditioner, 5-10 minutes will suffice.
• Rinse thoroughly in lukewarm water until the conditioner is removed from the hair.
Hint - always read the recommended timings, as each manufacturer will be different.

2. Skipping conditioner

You think you don’t need conditioner? Think again. Everyone’s hair is damaged, the question is, how much? If you shampoo your hair, you must use a conditioner of some sort to seal down the cuticle layer to protect the inner cortex, this is where the most damage can be made. Using the correct type for your hair can do so much for improving your hair's softness, smoothness and how well it holds a style.

3. Not keeping your hair type in mind.

Everyone’s hair is different, you need to keep these factors in mind when choosing the right conditioner for you:

• Hair texture, is it straight, wavy, curly, or coily?
• Hair dryness, the amount of moisture/hydration in your hair.
• Hair length, short, medium, or long?
• Hair thickness, fine, medium or course?
• Level of damage, breakage from heat styling, colouring, or environment damage?

Look for a conditioner which will help your hair needs and desired result. Frizzy hair? Look for a smoothing conditioner. Damaged hair? A repairing treatment will help. Always ask for a recommendation from a professional if you are unsure, or read the labels for proper directions.

4. Working conditioner unevenly throughout your hair.

It’s easy to just slap on conditioner and hope for the best if you’re in a rush. But correct application and timing for the conditioning phase of your hair care routine is essential. Skipping this stage or patchy application can leave your strands' most fragile area (the cortex) open to the elements, leading to lots of damage to your hair. For some hair types, it may be tougher to work conditioner all the way through the hair with just your fingers.
Hint – use a wide toothed comb, tangle teezer or wet brush in the shower to distribute the conditioner so it moisturises throughout thick or curly hair.

5. Rinsing immediately or not rinsing enough.

It’s moisturiser for the hair – it needs a little time to work its magic. If you are rinsing the conditioner immediately, the product isn’t getting enough time to do its work and adhere to the hair shaft.

When you neglect to rinse conditioner properly, you run the risk of creating build-up, dulling shine or even clogging follicles if it has gotten on your scalp. Spend a few extra minutes on rinsing it all out, particularly on thick and curly hair.